Black Fork Mountain Trail (Polk County, northwest of Mena) is a strenuous 11 mile out-and-back hike (5.6 miles each way) on Black Fork Mountain. It is in the Ouachita National Forest in southwest Arkansas, just north of Queen Wilhelmina State Park on Rich Mountain.

The trail offers spectacular views, unique forests, and historic places. Black Fork Mountain Trail is great for a long day hike or an overnight backpack.

My GPS tracked me at 5.6 miles to the summit of Black Fork Mountain. The total elevation gain was 1,705 and elevations loss of 644 feet.

Directions to Black Fork Mountain Trailhead

The trailhead for Black Fork Mountain Trail is off of Highway 59/270 west of Mena, Ark. From Mena you will want to take Highway 71 north to the town of Acorn. At Acorn turn onto Highway 59/270 and drive for about 6 miles. The parking lot for the trailhead will be on your right.

If you come to the intersection of Highway 272 to your left, you have gone too far.

Trailhead to the Ouachita Trail

The Black Fork Mountain Trail follows the Ouachita Trail to the east for a little less than a mile before it splits off and heads to the west.

When you begin your hike, you immediately cross via a footbridge over the Ouachita River. For those of us who live down river, it’s hard for us to see this creek as the Ouachita River.

From the river, you will then cross the railroad tracks. This was a first for me, crossing railroad tracks, and I thought it was neat. Once you cross the railroad tracks, you will need to look for the blue blazes to show you where the trail enters the forest again.

This part of the Ouachita Trail is a steady climb through open forest with lots of boulders. I thought this part was very pretty.

At about mile 0.9, the trail intersects with the Black Fork Mountain Trail. Here you will want to turn to the left, and follow the white blazes. There is also a sign directing hikers which way to go.

Ouachita Trail to False Summit

When the Black Fork Mountain Trail splits from the Ouachita Trail, it follows an old road bed. Shortly past the intersection, there is another intersection with a very short spur trail to a backcountry shelter.

From there the trial climbs semi-steeply through a beautiful pine forest until it gets to the ridge and levels out a little bit at mile 2.15.

At mile 2.47 there is a quick spur to a wonderful vista. You can see Rich Mountain to the south and a long ways to the west. You can also see the highway and how far you have climbed at this point.

From there the trail continues to follow the ridge and at mile 2.77 it passes by a pond.

There is a really short steep part and then the trail levels out along the ridge line. This is where some of the good campsites are.

Along the ridge the oak trees are very short, but very old. This is a unique forest and something that I find amazing.

False Summit to Real Summit

At about mile 3.75 the trail turns and begins to head down hill. This part of the trail is steep. It also takes a little bit of route finding. You will need to watch for the cairns. I saw no white blazes on trees in this part, and because the trail takes you through a rocky part it can be hard to spot the beaten path.

At mile 4.2, another trail comes into the Black Fork Mountain Trail. I did not notice this trail until my return back to the trailhead, where I went the wrong way. On the return, you will want to be sure to stay to the left. In Tim Ernst’s “Arkansas Hiking Trails” book, he calls the other trail a “Mule Trail.”

It was confusing to me on the return because on the way back you are heading downhill until this point. The Mule Trail continues downhill, but the Black Fork Mountain Trail splits off and takes you back uphill. Also on the return this part is very steep.

Continuing toward the summit, about two tenths of a mile down the trial you can see a huge rock glacier above you to your right through the trees.

From there the trail climbs back to the ridge and along an open side of the mountain. There are excellent views here.

At about mile 5, the trail gets back on the ridge and levels out again.

Around mile 5.2, the trail passes an old chimney left from long ago. It then follows an old stone fence. I loved seeing these old structures.

Summit to Trailhead

The trees get really thick and really short near the summit, and the trail sort of ends at a rock outcropping. From the summit, you can see the lodge at Queen Wilhelmina State Park and miles to the east and west.

There is not a sign or anything that marks the end of the trail. I attempted to go further from this point, but the small oaks choked out the trail and it petered out.

This is a great place to have a picnic too.

Final Notes

As far as backpacking, there are numerous amazing places to camp along the ridge of Black Fork Mountain. However, the Back Fork Mountain Trail mostly follows the ridge of the mountain, so water is scarce and almost non-existent.

If you are going to backpack the trail, you will need to bring all your water with you. I say water is “almost non-existent” because when I hiked the trail in the spring of 2018, I did cross a beautiful cascade. But I wouldn’t count on it to be flowing if I were to backpack it.

It’s apparent that other people think this trail is a great backpacking trail by the number of fire rings I saw. Backcountry camping is permitted.

The majority of the trail is in the Black Fork Mountain Wilderness.

Photo Gallery

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Map

[A version of this post was originally published on September 13, 2018 in the blog “Right Kind of Lost.”]

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At 209 feet tall, Hemmed-in Hollow Falls (Buffalo River Upper District, Newton County near Compton) is the tallest waterfall between the Appalachian Mountains and the Rocky Mountains.  While the hike isn’t easy, it is very popular as hikers are eager to see this towering beauty of the falls, and the Compton trailhead is easy to get to.

While the trail to the falls is usually in good condition, at 1,300 feet of elevation change, the hike is not for the faint of heart. But a breathtaking waterfall and secluded canyon await those who make the challenging 5-mile out-and-back hike (2.4 mi each way).

Getting to Compton Trailhead

To get to the Compton Trailhead, go to the community of Compton (8.3 miles north of Ponca on Highway 43) about 15 miles southwest of Harrison. Turn east on the gravel road immediately across from JB Trading Co. (Watch for the sign.)

After about 1/10 of a mile, turn right onto the gravel road and follow it .8 miles and then turn right onto another gravel road. (There is a sign here.)

The parking area and trailhead are just up the hill.

By the way, the nearby JB Trading Co is a fantastic establishment in Compton. They make a great sandwich, and also have maps, trail guides, outerwear, socks, camping supplies and virtually anything you need to make your hike and camp a success.

The Hike

There are two trails at the trailhead — the one to the right is a horse trail that heads down through Sneeds Creek. The one on the left is the main hiking trail. That is our trail.

The trail heads down the hill gradually at first. Off to the left, you will begin to notice a small creek. This is the creek that feeds Hemmed-in Hollow Falls.

At about .7 miles, there is an intersection. Stay straight at this intersection. The trail to the left takes you to Wild Vic’s Cabin, and to the right connects with the horse trail.

The trail continues going down the hill. In some steep parts, there are stone stairs built to make it easier. There are other places that the steep slope has caused the trail to wash out a little and makes for some less-than-sure-footed hiking.

There are great views all around (particularly during leaf-off), so be sure to enjoy them.

While the excitement of getting to the falls is usually prominent, at some point as you may realize that hiking back out of here is going to be hard.

At about 1.5, after a few switchbacks, the trail turns right at a rock slab right along the top of an overlook. It’s a beautiful overlook, and if you look closely you will see a notched out “U” in the bluff on the other side of the valley and you can see the top of Hemmed-in Hollow Falls flowing over the ridge.

This is a great spot to enjoy, and even a better spot to stop and rest to catch your breath on the way back up! Keep going though, the best views are only a mile away.

Caution: Be very careful at bluffs. A fall could be fatal or result in serious injury.

At 1.8 miles there is an intersection. Turn left here. The trail coming from the right is the trail that comes in past Big Bluff and the Goat Trail from Centerpoint Trailhead. 

When you turn left, the trail goes downhill and back below ridge of the the trail you have just hiked down.

At 2.3 you reach a creek that is downstream from Hemmed in Hollow and another trail intersection. Stay straight (left) on the trail.  The trail to the right goes .5 miles to the Buffalo River (and this is the trail that comes in from the river if you choose to float and then hike back to the falls).

Follow the trail as it now goes back uphill to the big falls. After a bit, you will cross a small creek that comes in from your left. Below here is a very nice twin waterfall that is approximately 14 feet tall (note on the pic above that the falls coming in from the left has pretty low flow on this day).

Continue on the trail and you will come across yet another nice, 18-foot(ish) tall waterfall on the main creek.

The Waterfall

At about 2.5 miles, you reach Hemmed in Hollow Falls. It’s a beautiful 209 foot tall falls that pours off into an amazing canyon.

It really worth spending the time here to enjoy the area and have a sandwich or some snacks. You’ve earned it. And you’re going to need to refuel before the trip back up.

You can easily climb back up behind the falls (but be careful, the rocks are very slick here). And notice that when the wind blows, it often makes the falls move from side to side and around almost like it’s dancing in the wind.

After enjoying one of the finest places in the Ozarks, you turn around and head back the way you came.

The hike back up is quite challenging. With 1,300 feet of elevation gain in just 2 miles you’ll feel the burn. Take your time, and drink plenty of water.

Final Notes

I rate the trail difficulty as very strenuous (5 of 5).

This is a wet-weather falls, so it is usually best enjoyed in the winter and spring and when there has been a fair amount of moisture.

As for footwear, I recommend sturdy hiking boots.

You can read more about this trail in Tim Ernst’s “Buffalo River Hiking Trails” and “Arkansas Hiking Trails” books.

The pics are from my January 1, 2016 hike (except for the indicated Mike Newman pics).

Photo Gallery

Map

Hemmed-in Hollow Falls Trail (Via Compton) (Buffalo River)
Location	Buffalo National River - Compton, Newton County, Arkansas
Length/Type	4.8 miles out and back (2.4 miles each way).
Difficulty	Very strenuous (5 of 5).
Gpx file (by Mike)	Link
Date Hiked	January 1, 2016
Directions	Google Maps Directions to Compton Trailhead
Official Info	(870) 439-2502 (Tyler Bend Visitor Center Information) Website NPS Trail Map (pdf)

[A version of this post was originally published on January 31, 2016 on the blog “Exploring Northwest Arkansas.”]

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The mountains in southwest Arkansas between Glenwood and Mena are my favorite on the entire planet. They are so rugged, remote, and beautiful, you simply cannot look at them without awe.

The Caney Creek/Buckeye Trail loop (Ouachita National Forest in Polk County, near Shady Lake) is my new favorite hike in Arkansas. It has it all—a gorgeous valley, mountain vistas, and a unique waterfall.

This challenging hike is a 9.4-mile loop in the Caney Creek Wilderness that connects the Buckeye Trail, the eastern part of the Caney Creek Trail, and Forest Road 64.

I took the loop clockwise starting at the Caney Creek Trail east trailhead. (The alternative is to start at the Buckeye Trailhead and make the loop counterclockwise.) I chose this route so that at the end of the trail when I was tired, I would be heading downhill on the dirt road.

I am glad I hiked it this way so that I could do the creek crossings in the beginning. The Caney Creek Trail crosses the creek several times. I had to stop and take off my boots several times for the crossings.

Getting to the Trailhead

Because there are 2 trails, there are 2 trailheads. I began at the Caney Creek Trail east trailhead. It is on Forest Road 38, about 3.5 mile from the Shady Lake Recreation Area.

If want to go counterclockwise, the Buckeye Trailhead is about a mile further up Forest Road 38.

East Caney Creek Trail to Buckeye Trail

The Caney Creek Trail is a 9-mile east-west trail that follows the Caney Creek Valley. But for this loop, you will only hike on it for 3.8 miles when it intersects with the Buckeye Trail.

This section of the trail is fairly easy, as there is only one uphill portion. And I say “fairly” loosely depending on your tolerance for stream crossings.

I hiked it in the spring and after a rain. I had to take off my boots to cross Caney Creek two times as well as two tributaries of the creek. I have trekking poles to help keep myself stable on the slick river rocks, and river shoes – both I failed to bring. So by the fourth creek crossing, I was irritable. It didn’t help that on that last creek crossing, I fell in soaking my boots and socks.

Despite my failures in the creek crossings, I love this section of trail. If you are a backpacker, there are so many great spots for a campsite.

Caney Creek is beautiful, and in warm weather it would be a great hike because there are many opportunities to cool off in the water.

Caution: Fording a stream or river can be dangerous. Don’t cross a river or stream where it is more than waist deep. See this post at Section Hiker for more water crossing safety tips.

One really neat thing about this loop is that it runs parallel to Tall Peak. (I hiked the Tall Peak Trail about a month before this hike.) As I was in the Caney Creek Valley, I could look up and see the towers on Tall Peak and see how high up it is.

And then on the ridge line of Buckeye Mountain, I could gauge how far I had come and how high I was by the beacon of the towers on Tall Peak.

Katy Falls

The intersection with Buckeye Trail is at about 3.8 miles. There are no blazes or signs since this is a designated wilderness area. There is a rather large cairn at the junction. It is right after the trail crosses Katy Creek. (This was the fourth crossing where I had to take off my boots.)

Take a right to proceed onto the Buckeye Trail.

Shortly afterward, there is another intersection. You should take a right for the short spur to the Katy Falls.

Katy Falls is amazing. The water cascades about 12 feet through a very narrow shoot, for a pretty unique waterfall. (For backpackers, there is an amazing unofficial campsite right above the falls.)

Katy Falls to the First Vista on Buckeye Mountain

After the spur to Katy Falls, the Buckeye Trail climbs steeply to a saddle below East Hanna Mountain. I loved this part of the trail as it takes you up a narrow valley between East Hanna Mountain and Katy Mountain. There you hike over massive novaculite rock glades and see broken bluffs on the opposite side.

During leaf-off, you have amazing views. And once you get to the top, you can see down the funnel of the valley looking toward the Caney Creek Valley.

Buckeye Mountain Ridge Line

At around mile 5.2, the trail turns toward the east as you hike along the ridge line. You are still climbing in this part, but not as steeply.

Along this ridge line are some of the best mountain views in Arkansas. Toward the west, you have an endless panorama of blue mountain ridges piled on top of each other.

As you hike, to the south and your right, you look down on the Caney Creek Valley—the valley you just hiked. And to the east, you look through another valley toward endless mountains of the Little Missouri River area.

The hillside to the north has balding peaks with mountain glade, one of my favorite features of this area.

There are several vistas along this section of trail. You’ll want to stop and look behind you as you hike because they are all around you.

Buckeye Mountain Back to the Trailhead

At about 7.6 miles, you get to the Buckeye Mountain summit. The rest of the trail is downhill.

After the summit, you hike steeply down for about a mile before coming to the Buckeye Trailhead.

From there you will hang a right on the road (Forest Road 38) to get back to the Caney Creek Trailhead.

Final Notes

This trail really has it all—beautiful Ouachita Mountain valleys, a unique waterfall, and epic vistas. It’s no surprise to me that my new favorite trail is in this area of the state though. This is truly a unique and beautiful area.

Be prepared for some climbing though. The net elevation change is about 1,100 feet. The cumulative elevation gain on the hike is about 1,970 feet. I rate the difficulty as “very strenuous” (5 of 5).

Check out these links for trail profiles of the west Caney Creek Trail and Tall Peak Trail. 

I took these photos on my March 30, 2018 hike.

Photo Gallery

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Map

Buckeye Trail/East Caney Creek Trail Loop (Ouachita Forest)
Location	Caney Creek Wilderness, Ouachita National Forest, Polk County, Arkansas
Hike Length/Type	9.4 mile loop, including the 1.1 mile walk on the forest road from one trailhead to the other. No blazes (wilderness).
Difficulty	Very Strenuous (5 of 5).
Other Permitted Usage	--
Gpx file by Mike	Link
Date Hiked	March 30, 2018
Directions	Google Maps Directions to East Caney Creek Trailhead Google Maps Directions to Buckeye Trailhead
Official Info	(479) 394-2382 (Mena/Oden Ranger Dist.) Website USFS trail map (pdf)

[A version of this post was originally published on May 3, 2018 in the blog “Right Kind of Lost.”]

Last revised: 9-17-2019.

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The Caney Creek Wilderness in the Ouachita National Forest in southwest Arkansas (Polk County, southeast of Mena, near Shady Lake) is one of the most beautiful and rugged areas in the state. It is 14,460 acres and is a backpacker’s paradise.

Because it is a designated wilderness area, it is a great place for solitude and primitive recreation.

Tall Peak Trail is a great day hike in this area. It is 3.1 miles each way (6.2 miles out and back). Although it is steep and rugged with an elevation change of nearly 1,200 feet, it is a very rewarding hike.

Getting to Tall Peak Trail

To get to Shady Lake from Highway 71 (south of Mena), turn and go east on Highway 246 near Vandervoort. After about 20 miles, there will be a sign on your left for Shady Lake Recreation Area. Follow the signs.

The trailhead is at Area C of the Shady Lake Campground, near the badminton net and restroom.

If the campground is closed, you can park outside the gate and walk to the trailhead. (The trails are still open when the campground in the off-season.)

Hiking Along a Creek

You begin the trail by crossing a low water bridge. The trail follows a beautiful river for about a mile before it turns to the left and heads uphill. (It’s called the Saline River, but is quite small for a river)

During this first mile as you follow the Saline River you also follow the road. The trail crosses the river four times. When I hiked it in March, I was able to hop from rock to rock or tippy toe to keep the water from flowing over my boots. But if the water level had been any higher, I would have had to take off my boots.

One good thing about the road being right there is that if the water is too high, you can walk the road.

If you decide to cross the river during a wet time of year, be very careful.

Caution: Fording a stream or river can be dangerous. Don’t cross a river or stream where it is more than waist deep. See this post at Section Hiker for more water crossing safety tips.

This area of the trail is gorgeous as there are a number of high steep embankments along the river which create beautiful chutes and deep pools. At one point, the trail climbs the steep embankment and can be a little treacherous. So you’ll want to watch your footing and be extra careful.

Caution: There are a number of drop-offs and bluffs on the Tall Peak Trail. Be very careful in these areas. A fall could result in serious injury or death.  

Making the Climb

Right at 1 mile, the trail begins to climb the mountain, and the trail splits. Here you’ll want to stay to the left. (The path to the right appears to be a spur over to the road.)

The trail steeply climbs for about two tenths of a mile and then levels off just a little. You are still climbing up, just not as steeply.

Then at right about 1.5 miles, the trail makes a turn to the left, and during leaf-off you begin to see Tall Peak with the old fire lookout building and towers through the trees to your right.

I love seeing where I’m going and how far and high I’m going. You get that on this trail. At this point, Tall Peak looks far away and way high up. But don’t worry—it’s not as bad as it seems. It also looks like you have to drop back down into the valley, but you don’t.

The trail is fairly level as it swings to the west and follows the contour line to a saddle at mile 2 before starting the steep climb to the top of Tall Peak. The saddle is pretty neat. It is very narrow, and I love how it showcases the ruggedness of the area.

After you cross the saddle, the trail starts to climb on a very steep slope to your sides. If you use trekking poles, they will come in handy here.

Amazing Vistas

Around mile 2.3, the trail comes to a rocky glade with amazing views to the west. You then turn and head up the mountain to the east. It’s steep and rocky, but the vistas along the way are worth it.

At mile 2.6, there is a short spur trail to the right to an amazing vista. I actually like this view better than the view from the top. The vista shows the mountains to the east, and you can really get a feel for how rugged this place is.

From the vista, you continue climbing, heading west. The trail then turns and heads northeast toward the forest service road that takes you to the top of Tall Peak. The road has been closed for a while now. But if you are looking for a less steep and shorter alternative, you can walk up the road. It’s about a two-mile hike.

If you are looking for a trail with even more vista in this area, check out the Athens-Big Fork. But be prepared, it’s a long and hard one.

The trail intersects with the road at about 2.9 miles and from there you can follow the road around to the old fire lookout at the top.

Historic Fire Lookout

The lookout at the top of Tall Peak is pretty neat and a great campsite if you are stuck in a storm. It is listed on the National Historic Lookout Register which recognizes “fire lookout sites, structures and towers with historic and cultural significance to forest fire detection in order to promote their protection.”

For more information on these structures, visit the National Historic Lookout Register.

From the peak, you can either hike back down the way you came or take the road back to Shady Lake Campground. If you decided to hike the road, it will add about two miles to your hike. I chose to hike back down the trail because I loved the vistas I saw on the way up. I also didn’t want to add two more miles.

Final Notes

Tall Peak Trail is a great hike, but it is rough and rugged. You should bring plenty of water because on the rocky outcroppings it can get much warmer than in the valley.

I rate the difficulty as “very strenuous” (5 of 5).

Tall Peak Trail is better hiked in the leaf-off season because you get more views. But even without all the vistas, it is an amazing fall hike. Another advantage of hiking it during leaf-off is the thick briers that are usually at the top part of the trail.

Nearly all of the trail lies in the Caney Creek Wilderness.

You might also want to check out the nearby Caney Creek Trail (West) and the Buckeye Trail-Caney Creek Trail Loop.

These photos are from my hike on March 11, 2018.

Photo Gallery

Map

Tall Peak Trail (Ouachita Forest)
Location	Caney Creek Wilderness, Ouachita National Forest, Polk County, Arkansas
Hike Length/Type	6.2 miles (3.1 miles each way)/out-and-back. White blazes.
Difficulty	Very Strenuous (5 of 5).
Other Permitted Usage	Equestrian.
Gpx file by Mike	Link
Date Hiked	2-24-2013
Directions	Google Maps Directions to Tall Peak Trailhead Area
Official Info	(479) 394-2382 (Mena/Oden Ranger Dist.) Website USFS trail map (pdf)

[A version of this post was originally published on April 5, 2018 in the blog “Right Kind of Lost.”]

Last revised: 9-18-2019.

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