The mountains in southwest Arkansas between Glenwood and Mena are my favorite on the entire planet. They are so rugged, remote, and beautiful, you simply cannot look at them without awe.

The Caney Creek/Buckeye Trail loop (Ouachita National Forest in Polk County, near Shady Lake) is my new favorite hike in Arkansas. It has it all—a gorgeous valley, mountain vistas, and a unique waterfall.

This challenging hike is a 9.4-mile loop in the Caney Creek Wilderness that connects the Buckeye Trail, the eastern part of the Caney Creek Trail, and Forest Road 64.

I took the loop clockwise starting at the Caney Creek Trail east trailhead. (The alternative is to start at the Buckeye Trailhead and make the loop counterclockwise.) I chose this route so that at the end of the trail when I was tired, I would be heading downhill on the dirt road.

I am glad I hiked it this way so that I could do the creek crossings in the beginning. The Caney Creek Trail crosses the creek several times. I had to stop and take off my boots several times for the crossings.

Getting to the Trailhead

Because there are 2 trails, there are 2 trailheads. I began at the Caney Creek Trail east trailhead. It is on Forest Road 38, about 3.5 mile from the Shady Lake Recreation Area.

If want to go counterclockwise, the Buckeye Trailhead is about a mile further up Forest Road 38.

East Caney Creek Trail to Buckeye Trail

The Caney Creek Trail is a 9-mile east-west trail that follows the Caney Creek Valley. But for this loop, you will only hike on it for 3.8 miles when it intersects with the Buckeye Trail.

This section of the trail is fairly easy, as there is only one uphill portion. And I say “fairly” loosely depending on your tolerance for stream crossings.

I hiked it in the spring and after a rain. I had to take off my boots to cross Caney Creek two times as well as two tributaries of the creek. I have trekking poles to help keep myself stable on the slick river rocks, and river shoes – both I failed to bring. So by the fourth creek crossing, I was irritable. It didn’t help that on that last creek crossing, I fell in soaking my boots and socks.

Despite my failures in the creek crossings, I love this section of trail. If you are a backpacker, there are so many great spots for a campsite.

Caney Creek is beautiful, and in warm weather it would be a great hike because there are many opportunities to cool off in the water.

Caution: Fording a stream or river can be dangerous. Don’t cross a river or stream where it is more than waist deep. See this post at Section Hiker for more water crossing safety tips.

One really neat thing about this loop is that it runs parallel to Tall Peak. (I hiked the Tall Peak Trail about a month before this hike.) As I was in the Caney Creek Valley, I could look up and see the towers on Tall Peak and see how high up it is.

And then on the ridge line of Buckeye Mountain, I could gauge how far I had come and how high I was by the beacon of the towers on Tall Peak.

Katy Falls

The intersection with Buckeye Trail is at about 3.8 miles. There are no blazes or signs since this is a designated wilderness area. There is a rather large cairn at the junction. It is right after the trail crosses Katy Creek. (This was the fourth crossing where I had to take off my boots.)

Take a right to proceed onto the Buckeye Trail.

Shortly afterward, there is another intersection. You should take a right for the short spur to the Katy Falls.

Katy Falls is amazing. The water cascades about 12 feet through a very narrow shoot, for a pretty unique waterfall. (For backpackers, there is an amazing unofficial campsite right above the falls.)

Katy Falls to the First Vista on Buckeye Mountain

After the spur to Katy Falls, the Buckeye Trail climbs steeply to a saddle below East Hanna Mountain. I loved this part of the trail as it takes you up a narrow valley between East Hanna Mountain and Katy Mountain. There you hike over massive novaculite rock glades and see broken bluffs on the opposite side.

During leaf-off, you have amazing views. And once you get to the top, you can see down the funnel of the valley looking toward the Caney Creek Valley.

Buckeye Mountain Ridge Line

At around mile 5.2, the trail turns toward the east as you hike along the ridge line. You are still climbing in this part, but not as steeply.

Along this ridge line are some of the best mountain views in Arkansas. Toward the west, you have an endless panorama of blue mountain ridges piled on top of each other.

As you hike, to the south and your right, you look down on the Caney Creek Valley—the valley you just hiked. And to the east, you look through another valley toward endless mountains of the Little Missouri River area.

The hillside to the north has balding peaks with mountain glade, one of my favorite features of this area.

There are several vistas along this section of trail. You’ll want to stop and look behind you as you hike because they are all around you.

Buckeye Mountain Back to the Trailhead

At about 7.6 miles, you get to the Buckeye Mountain summit. The rest of the trail is downhill.

After the summit, you hike steeply down for about a mile before coming to the Buckeye Trailhead.

From there you will hang a right on the road (Forest Road 38) to get back to the Caney Creek Trailhead.

Final Notes

This trail really has it all—beautiful Ouachita Mountain valleys, a unique waterfall, and epic vistas. It’s no surprise to me that my new favorite trail is in this area of the state though. This is truly a unique and beautiful area.

Be prepared for some climbing though. The net elevation change is about 1,100 feet. The cumulative elevation gain on the hike is about 1,970 feet. I rate the difficulty as “very strenuous” (5 of 5).

Check out these links for trail profiles of the west Caney Creek Trail and Tall Peak Trail. 

I took these photos on my March 30, 2018 hike.

Photo Gallery

Click below for full-screen photo gallery.

Map

Buckeye Trail/East Caney Creek Trail Loop (Ouachita Forest)
Location	Caney Creek Wilderness, Ouachita National Forest, Polk County, Arkansas
Hike Length/Type	9.4 mile loop, including the 1.1 mile walk on the forest road from one trailhead to the other. No blazes (wilderness).
Difficulty	Very Strenuous (5 of 5).
Other Permitted Usage	--
Gpx file by Mike	Link
Date Hiked	March 30, 2018
Directions	Google Maps Directions to East Caney Creek Trailhead Google Maps Directions to Buckeye Trailhead
Official Info	(479) 394-2382 (Mena/Oden Ranger Dist.) Website USFS trail map (pdf)

[A version of this post was originally published on May 3, 2018 in the blog “Right Kind of Lost.”]

Last revised: 9-17-2019.

The post Buckeye Trail – Caney Creek Trail Loop (Ouachita Forest) – 9 mi appeared first on Arklahoma Hiker.

The Caney Creek Wilderness in the Ouachita National Forest in southwest Arkansas (Polk County, southeast of Mena, near Shady Lake) is one of the most beautiful and rugged areas in the state. It is 14,460 acres and is a backpacker’s paradise.

Because it is a designated wilderness area, it is a great place for solitude and primitive recreation.

Tall Peak Trail is a great day hike in this area. It is 3.1 miles each way (6.2 miles out and back). Although it is steep and rugged with an elevation change of nearly 1,200 feet, it is a very rewarding hike.

Getting to Tall Peak Trail

To get to Shady Lake from Highway 71 (south of Mena), turn and go east on Highway 246 near Vandervoort. After about 20 miles, there will be a sign on your left for Shady Lake Recreation Area. Follow the signs.

The trailhead is at Area C of the Shady Lake Campground, near the badminton net and restroom.

If the campground is closed, you can park outside the gate and walk to the trailhead. (The trails are still open when the campground in the off-season.)

Hiking Along a Creek

You begin the trail by crossing a low water bridge. The trail follows a beautiful river for about a mile before it turns to the left and heads uphill. (It’s called the Saline River, but is quite small for a river)

During this first mile as you follow the Saline River you also follow the road. The trail crosses the river four times. When I hiked it in March, I was able to hop from rock to rock or tippy toe to keep the water from flowing over my boots. But if the water level had been any higher, I would have had to take off my boots.

One good thing about the road being right there is that if the water is too high, you can walk the road.

If you decide to cross the river during a wet time of year, be very careful.

Caution: Fording a stream or river can be dangerous. Don’t cross a river or stream where it is more than waist deep. See this post at Section Hiker for more water crossing safety tips.

This area of the trail is gorgeous as there are a number of high steep embankments along the river which create beautiful chutes and deep pools. At one point, the trail climbs the steep embankment and can be a little treacherous. So you’ll want to watch your footing and be extra careful.

Caution: There are a number of drop-offs and bluffs on the Tall Peak Trail. Be very careful in these areas. A fall could result in serious injury or death.  

Making the Climb

Right at 1 mile, the trail begins to climb the mountain, and the trail splits. Here you’ll want to stay to the left. (The path to the right appears to be a spur over to the road.)

The trail steeply climbs for about two tenths of a mile and then levels off just a little. You are still climbing up, just not as steeply.

Then at right about 1.5 miles, the trail makes a turn to the left, and during leaf-off you begin to see Tall Peak with the old fire lookout building and towers through the trees to your right.

I love seeing where I’m going and how far and high I’m going. You get that on this trail. At this point, Tall Peak looks far away and way high up. But don’t worry—it’s not as bad as it seems. It also looks like you have to drop back down into the valley, but you don’t.

The trail is fairly level as it swings to the west and follows the contour line to a saddle at mile 2 before starting the steep climb to the top of Tall Peak. The saddle is pretty neat. It is very narrow, and I love how it showcases the ruggedness of the area.

After you cross the saddle, the trail starts to climb on a very steep slope to your sides. If you use trekking poles, they will come in handy here.

Amazing Vistas

Around mile 2.3, the trail comes to a rocky glade with amazing views to the west. You then turn and head up the mountain to the east. It’s steep and rocky, but the vistas along the way are worth it.

At mile 2.6, there is a short spur trail to the right to an amazing vista. I actually like this view better than the view from the top. The vista shows the mountains to the east, and you can really get a feel for how rugged this place is.

From the vista, you continue climbing, heading west. The trail then turns and heads northeast toward the forest service road that takes you to the top of Tall Peak. The road has been closed for a while now. But if you are looking for a less steep and shorter alternative, you can walk up the road. It’s about a two-mile hike.

If you are looking for a trail with even more vista in this area, check out the Athens-Big Fork. But be prepared, it’s a long and hard one.

The trail intersects with the road at about 2.9 miles and from there you can follow the road around to the old fire lookout at the top.

Historic Fire Lookout

The lookout at the top of Tall Peak is pretty neat and a great campsite if you are stuck in a storm. It is listed on the National Historic Lookout Register which recognizes “fire lookout sites, structures and towers with historic and cultural significance to forest fire detection in order to promote their protection.”

For more information on these structures, visit the National Historic Lookout Register.

From the peak, you can either hike back down the way you came or take the road back to Shady Lake Campground. If you decided to hike the road, it will add about two miles to your hike. I chose to hike back down the trail because I loved the vistas I saw on the way up. I also didn’t want to add two more miles.

Final Notes

Tall Peak Trail is a great hike, but it is rough and rugged. You should bring plenty of water because on the rocky outcroppings it can get much warmer than in the valley.

I rate the difficulty as “very strenuous” (5 of 5).

Tall Peak Trail is better hiked in the leaf-off season because you get more views. But even without all the vistas, it is an amazing fall hike. Another advantage of hiking it during leaf-off is the thick briers that are usually at the top part of the trail.

Nearly all of the trail lies in the Caney Creek Wilderness.

You might also want to check out the nearby Caney Creek Trail (West) and the Buckeye Trail-Caney Creek Trail Loop.

These photos are from my hike on March 11, 2018.

Photo Gallery

Map

Tall Peak Trail (Ouachita Forest)
Location	Caney Creek Wilderness, Ouachita National Forest, Polk County, Arkansas
Hike Length/Type	6.2 miles (3.1 miles each way)/out-and-back. White blazes.
Difficulty	Very Strenuous (5 of 5).
Other Permitted Usage	Equestrian.
Gpx file by Mike	Link
Date Hiked	2-24-2013
Directions	Google Maps Directions to Tall Peak Trailhead Area
Official Info	(479) 394-2382 (Mena/Oden Ranger Dist.) Website USFS trail map (pdf)

[A version of this post was originally published on April 5, 2018 in the blog “Right Kind of Lost.”]

Last revised: 9-18-2019.

The post Tall Peak Trail (Ouachita Forest) – 6 mi (o&b) appeared first on Arklahoma Hiker.

The western part of the Caney Creek Trail is a wonderfully scenic hike through the Ouachita National Forests’s Caney Creek Wilderness. It is a hike of 11.4 miles (5.7 miles each way) and has 22 wet crossings (11 miles each way), but it is well worth the effort.

The Caney Creek Trail runs 9 miles from west to east, mostly following Caney Creek. You can use of the eastern part of the trail to make a 9.4-mile loop hike with the Buckeye Trail. (See this post.)

This hike is an out-and-back one that just covers the western 5.7 miles of the Caney Creek Trail. It goes from the west trailhead to the Buckeye Trail junction.

Directions to Caney Creek Trail West Trailhead

If you are coming from Highway 71, get on state highway 246 and head east (the only direction) for about 11 miles.

Around the community of Hartley, take Forest Road 31 on your left (to the north). There is a sign there indicating to turn for the Caney Creek Wilderness west trailhead.

Stay on FR 31 for about 10 miles. Then you take a short road off to the right for about a quarter mile that takes you to the well-marked west trailhead. (When I was there earlier this year, there was no sign pointing out this right turn, but I don’t think it’s hard to figure it out.)

There is parking at the trailhead.

Wet Crossings

As I mentioned, there are 22 wet crossings on this hike (11 each way).

Of course, if you are doing the trail in a drier time of the year, you may be able to make some of the crossings on rocks. That wasn’t an option on my hike in April.

The first wet crossing is at about .6 miles when the trail crosses the Cossatot River. The Cossatot River is pretty wide, but I was able to cross it along a path was not deep.

A note of caution. Fording a stream or river can be dangerous. Don’t cross a river or stream where it is more than waist deep. See this post at Section Hiker for more water crossing safety tips.

After crossing the Cossatot River, the trail goes about another mile, largely on an old road trace, and then reaches Caney Creek. From here until the Buckeye Trail junction, the trail crosses the creek 10 times.

Yes, it’s a lot of wet crossings, but the areas along the creek are very scenic. When it is warm weather, as it was the afternoon of my hike getting into the 80’s, the wet crossings can be quite enjoyable.

I do recommend having decent footwear for the wet slippery rocks you will be walking on in the wet crossings. (Again, check out Section Hiker’s suggestions.) (Beach slippers do not make good water crossing shoes. Trust me.)

Hiking the Trail 

Other than its length and the wet crossings, this is not a difficult hike.

There is some up-and-downhill climbing here and there. But for the most part, the trail just makes a pretty gradual uphill climb as it follows Caney Creek upstream to the east. The net elevation change on this 5.7 miles is about 300 feet.

Since the trail is in a wilderness area, there are not supposed to be any blazes. When I was there, the trail did not have any official blazes, but I did see a few places where someone had done some yellow blazes that had not yet been removed.

When the water is flowing well as when I had my April hike, it is a beautiful trail. The Cossatot River and Caney Creek were very scenic.

Although there are many scenic areas on the trail, I have two favorite places from my hike. One is at the expansive crossing of the Cossatot River. The other is a 3-foot-high cascade (or mini-waterfall) in Caney Creek at around 3 miles that is slightly upstream from one of the creek crossings. (It is pictured at the top of this post. Video of the cascade is here.)

Although there are (officially) no blazes or signs on this wilderness trail, the junction with the Buckeye Trail isn’t difficult to see. The fork for the Buckeye Trail is at about 5.7 miles and is marked by a cairn (pile of rocks).

Final Notes

These photos and the gps data are all from my April 26 hike.

By and large, the trail was in very good condition and was easy to follow on my hike. (It did take me a little bit to figure out where the trail continued on the east side of the Cossatot River, but not too long.)

It was a beautiful day weather-wise. It was in the 60’s in the morning and warmer in the afternoon. It was mostly cloudy that morning and was sunny later.

You may get to enjoy quite a bit of seclusion on the trail. I saw no one on the trail the Saturday I did my hike.

There is no cell coverage on this trail.

If you read Tim Ernst’s summary of the Caney Creek Trail in his “Arkansas Hiking Trails” guidebook, note that his mileage markings start at the east trailhead and go west. My mileage references are all from the west trailhead.

Map

Photo Gallery

Click below for full-screen photo gallery.

Caney Creek Trail - West (Ouachita Forest)
Location	Caney Creek Wilderness, Ouachita National Forest, Polk County, Arkansas
Hike Length/Type	11.4 mile out-and-back hike (5.7 mile each way from west trailhead to Buckeye Trail juncture). No blazes (wilderness).
Difficulty	Moderate (3 of 5)
Other Permitted Usage	--
Gpx file by Mike	Link
Date Hiked	April 26, 2014
Directions	Approximate Google Maps Directions to West Caney Creek Trailhead area. Note: Google does not seem to know the final road to the trailhead.
Official Info	(479) 394-2382 (Mena/Oden Ranger Dist.) Website USFS trail map (pdf)

[Last revised: 8-22-2021.]

The post Caney Creek Trail – West (Ouachita Forest) – 11 mi (o&b) appeared first on Arklahoma Hiker.

Katy Falls in the Caney Creek Wilderness is a cool 12-foot waterfall in a beautiful little cove by the west end of the Buckeye Trail. It is in the Ouachita National Forest, near Shady Lake, southeast of Mena.

The waterfall is on a spur near where the Buckeye Trail joins the Caney Creek Trail. Also nearby is the mouth of Katy Creek, where it flows into Caney Creek. (See this post for full trail summary of the Buckeye Trail/East Caney Creek Trail Loop.)

These are two cell videos I took of the falls from my hike on July 13, 2013.

Alternate video link.

The video above was taken down near the base of the falls. The one below was taken above the falls.

Alternate video link.

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